good morning! you might remember that last year, we had a nice blog post to introduce my friend hunter hammersens’s first book, the knitter’s curiosity cabinet and to explore the world of curiosity cabinets. i’m flying to colorado today to work on a project at interweave press, so i gave hunter the keys to the blog so she could tell you about her new book the knitter’s curiosity cabinet, volume II. and now i’ll let her take the floor . . .
I’ve been a fan of Anne’s work for just about as long as I’ve been knitting. She has an aesthetic and style that really stands out, and it’s always easy to spot one of her designs. So when I heard she’d turned her talent to making yarns, I was excited to try them. I had great fun swatching four of the yarns up.
Anne’s new yarns, and my new book, The Knitter’s Curiosity Cabinet Volume II, seemed to offer a perfect opportunity for me to talk a bit about a subject of interest to most knitters, yarn substitutions! I’ll start here with a bit of discussion about yarn substitution in general, and then pick up over on Violently Domestic with a few examples of what to do in more complicated cases (hint, the answer is math).
In general, you want to look at three characteristics when you’re considering substituting yarns: yarn weight, fiber content, and structure. If all three of those things are the same (so if you’re substituting a three-ply, merino, fingering weight yarn for another three-ply, merino, fingering weight yarn), you’re almost certainly golden. Those are the easy substitutions, and they’re almost sure to work.
But alas, a match that close doesn’t always present itself. Sometimes you fall in love with a particular yarn (or you’re knitting from stash and need to use what you have on hand), and you need to be a bit creative. The good news is that with a little bit of experimenting, yarn substitutions are actually pretty flexible. Let’s work through two examples like this (where the yarn isn’t a perfect match on all three criteria) and see how they play out.
(One small note, some of the book swatches are prototypes and differ very slightly from the swatches in Anne’s yarns. They’re still really good examples of how to play with different yarns, I just didn’t want any close observers to spot the differences and be alarmed.)
First, we’ve got the Erasmia pulchella socks.
In the book, these are knit in Sock by Shibui (a two-ply fingering weight yarn made of 100% merino). Here, I swatched in Anne’s Breakfast Blend Fingering (a three-ply fingering weight yarn made of 50% merino, 40% alpaca, and 10% nylon). And the substitution works brilliantly! You can absolutely make these socks with this yarn.
Ok, now why? The yarn weight is the same (fingering in both cases), but the fiber content and structure aren’t. But the substitution works because they’re not as different as it might seem at first glance.
The Shibui is 100% merino. Half of the Breakfast Blend Fingering is a match, the other half is alpaca and nylon. While alpaca and wool are quite different, they are both animal fibers and have some characteristics (warmth, breathability) in common. One of the biggest differences between wool and alpaca is that alpaca isn’t as elastic as wool, but the nylon helps make up for that. And this may be a bit controversial, but I tend to regard anything up to about 20% nylon, especially in a sock yarn, as something of a blank slate. You can put it in a yarn without it making too much of a difference when it comes to substitutions. For something like this where it’s meant to be a sock, it’s actually a really lovely addition, as it will make the socks more long-lasting, while not interfering with the feel of the natural fibers.
The two-ply versus three-ply is also not a big deal in this case. If you look at the Shibui, you’ll see it’s a fairly tightly twisted two-ply. That means the yarn is quite round bouncy. This tight twist makes it a closer match to the Breakfast Blend Fingering’s three-ply structure than a more loosely plied two-ply would have been.
Next up, we’ve got the Vanessa antiopa Cowl.
In the book, this is knit in Lion & Lamb by Lorna’s Laces (a single ply aran weight yarn made of 50% wool, 50% silk). Here, I swatched in Anne’s Breakfast Blend DK (a three-ply dk weight yarn made of 60% merino 40% alpaca). Once again, the substitution works well, and you can totally use this yarn for this cowl, though this one does require a bit of explaining.
These two yarns are really quite different. The weight is a bit different (not dramatically, Breakfast Blend DK is on the heavier side of dk, and there’s a bit of overlap between heavy dk and aran), the fiber content is different, and the structure is different. You’d think there wasn’t a chance! But this is an example of how the project you’re considering matters just as much as the yarns you’re considering.
This is a cowl that sits right up against your skin and that’s meant to fold and drape and show off the lovely stitches. So one of the first questions to ask is what’s the fabric like at the required gauge in the Breakfast Blend DK. The answer is that it’s great. It’s got good drape, it’s soft enough to snuggle up in, and the stitch pattern shows up well.
Because this is a cowl (and so not subject to the sort of heavy wear that a sock endures, or even the functional demands of something like a sweater), the feel and look of the fabric is the most important consideration. The textural interest that the silk provides in the original yarn is taken care of in Anne’s yarn by the slight halo of the alpaca. The result isn’t exactly the same, but it’s just as lovely. And both yarns are soft enough for next-to-the skin wear and heavy enough go give good drape and hang nicely.
So there are two examples of successful yarn substitutions, even with yarns that have different characteristics. The first shows a substitution between two fairly similar yarns. Each will let you get gauge, have similar stitch definition, and stand up to the challenge of making lovely, sturdy socks. The second shows how a substitution between fairly different yarns can work beautifully, as long as both are suited to the demands of the project (and projects like cowls are particularly forgiving of substitutions).
Both examples demonstrate how you can get good results, even with yarns that aren’t a perfect match on yarn weight, fiber content, and structure. To see some even more distinct substitutions (ones different enough they require a bit of math), read the companion to this article over on Violently Domestic.
wasn’t that great?? and you know what’s even better? hunter has sent me an extra copy of the knitter’s curiosity cabinet volume II and i want to pass it on it to one lucky reader. if you’d like to win this copy, leave a brief comment at the end of this post by 9pm EDST on saturday, june 1, telling me one thing you learned from hunter’s post that will help you with your swatching adventures (cuz you know, it’s ALL an adventure!). we’ll pick a winner soon after and let you know when i return to my post on monday
117 thoughts on “curiosity gets the best of us”
This book looks like a lot of fun! I love learning about the qualities to look for when substituting yarn and how some things are more important depending on the type of knitting you are doing (socks vs cowls as Hunter explains).
If I learned anything it’s that I should swatch more! I’m so bad about that lol.
LOVE Hunter’s patterns.
Looks exciting! Reinforces the idea that you never know for sure until you swatch!!
I loved reading this! Yarn substitutions are one of my sub-hobbies, and it would not have occurred to me that you could substitute a DK for an Aran without lots of math, or that alpaca would behave similarly to silk (although it makes perfect sense when you think about it!)
Experiment and swatch, swatch, swatch!
Great post!
This re-emphasized for me the differences between 2, 3, and 4 ply sock yarns in terms of wear and tear, and ability to show off the stitch pattern.
Very interesting and especially useful. Like many knitters, I’m always substituting yarn and making minor modifications – and trying to extrapolate from a small swatch what the end result will be. I’ll be revisiting this post again, I know.
I’ve never considered structure when thinking of yarn substitutions. Hmm….
wahoomerryf on Rav
I found the second comparison interesting, as I would have been concerned about both the weight difference and the structure. I have to admit that, not being a spinner, I don’t have a good feel for the impact of the different plies.
very pretty swatches; I’m sure the book is wonderful!
For me, the emphasis on structure was enlightening…I have never really considered ply count in my substitutions. Thanks for the chance to learn something new!
Oh, I love looking at the difference in the swatches! I must admit I’m a terrible swatcher, and usually just try to match yarns rather than do the extra work. Hearing that nylon is “a blank slate,” I will probably be even worse about swatching, alas 🙂
I love this book! I think that was really interesting that the types of fibers didn’t have to match up as long as the characteristics such as structure and feel could be matched. Thank you for the giveaway!
Even though I hate doing it, I can do the math conversions to compensate for gauge differences. It’s harder to anticipate the effect of yarn character on the finished fabric. Swatch! Swatch! Swatch!
Wow awesome article! Shows you how important it is to swatch! I recently changed the yarn in a cowl I’m working on. I chose a yarn in a different weight and fiber content. Her design was done in acrylic and I switched to 100% Merino wool. She used an Aran weight to a DK weight. I did up a swatch followed by a large amount of math. I also did the math on making the pattern longer as well as wider. It was a good brain workout. Thank you for discussing switching different fiber types as I tend to find alternative yarns that do have similar content! I feel like my options are now greater for alternatives. I didn’t know about alpaca not being as elastic as wool and how nylon makes up for it when substituting it for 100% wool! thank you for the opportunity to win!!! (i just wanted to share an experience…I made it as brief as i could…sorry)w
So interesting to see a discussion about this constantly confronted issue of yarn substitution. I look forward to the next installment.
I can’t wait to see your second book. Your first has a prime spot in my personal library.
I have a much better understanding of why my yarn substitutions sometimes don’t work! Thank you for this great article.
This has shown me how little I do know about substitutions. I find it uncomfortable to substitute unless it is substituting one fingering for another or one double knit for another. Maybe this would broaden that horizon.
The way different yarns can behave with a pattern.
I’ve just been focusing on the weight of the yarn. Thinking of plies and fiber content will help me make better choices in the future.
And swatch, swatch, swatch. Ok! I get it! 🙂
Better late than never. Thanks for the education and opportunity to win a copy of what appears to be a fantastic book.
What a helpful bit of blogging. The more I knit the more I realize that knitting is really creating a fabric and the content of the yarn used is what that’s all about. Substituting yarns can be tricky so thanks for clearing away some of the haze that’s always seemed to surround it.
I learned that I need to swatch more paying closer attention to the fiber content. I’d like to do some experimenting in my stash. A copy of this book would really help me understand why I get such unexpected results sometimes.
I thought the bit about nylon in sock yarn was very interesting. I’ve been puzzling over the differences between sock yarns without nylon vs. socks with nylon. I’m glad to know I can substitute them without fear!
This was extremely useful information. I’m relatively new to knitting, and substituting has been a mystery until now.
Thank you for the help with yarn substitutions. I assume that the patterns have to be converted for the new gauge.
I learned that 20 percent nylon gives a “blank slate” for other fiber substitutions.
Love Hunter’s books, and this guide to substituting. All sock yarns are not the same, huh? Swatch! Even more than once, with different needles!:)
Holy crow! I have bookmarked this page for future reference because I used to just kind of wing it when it came to yarn substitution and then frog if necessary. I really liked seeing comparison swatches, and I went over to Hunter’s site and got the math aspect as well. I will definitely be swatching more!!
Main thing I learned is that you will not be sure if you can substitute yarns until you actually get a swatch done. So try it and if you get same fabric and gauge, go for it.
What an awesome article so much valuable useful information.
I have always thought about wt of yarn, but adding in a thought to fiber content was one of those “a-ha” moments:)
I learned that yarn substitutions don’t have to be “perfect” to be awesome.
i learned it is possible to subsitute 2,3 ply yarns. i didn’t know that !!
and of course it re-inforces that i should swatch more
Well, I’ve always been a bold substituter, so Hunter has confirmed some of my own notions and emphasized some particularly important points. Swatch, swatch, swatch!
Such a great guest post! I especially like the last picture of all the swatches together.
I just think it’s great that she encourages us to go beyond straight substitutions and to explore through swatching; some yarns might surprise us! Off to see the next part of her article. 🙂
I had never really thought about a high-twist 2-ply being closer to a 3-ply than a looser twist 2-ply would be. I don’t spin so I don’t know as much about plying as I should. I always just think of more plies and tighter twist as sturdier for things like socks.
The book sounds interesting – like Sheila – I hadn’t thought specifically about the differences between a high twist and a low twist two ply and how they might sub in for a three ply.
Interesting topic and I am so happy to see a professional who is not making those giant 4″ x 4″ swatches that take a week to knit!
Fascinating! I just read Hunter’s blog post on math and substitutions, but I don’t always think about fiber content in the mix of all that. And I’ve never thought about ply. Thanks for an enlightening post. The book and the yarns look scrumptious.
Id love this book. Hunter writes so well, and the yarn comparisans were interesting.
I think this tells me that I ought to investigate more yarns by swatching them before settling on a particular one for a project.
I never swatch myself, so I love seeing examples of them side by side like this. I really enjoyed this post.
I’m much better at swatching than I have been previously. Trying different yarn weights offers more of an insight as to how different fibers behave, and how they will hold up to the pattern chosen.
I got a look at the first Curiosity book over the weekend, thanks to an impromptu gathering of knitters at the place where I was weekending. I bet the next one is just as lovely!
I’ve never thought of substituting a plyed yarn for a single. That was eye opening! Thanks!
As a newbie knitter, I was pleased to see this article. I’m afraid to substitute yarns in my patterns and I have tons of yarn on hand as I’ve become something of a yarn addict…
Mille grazie for the info and the new link to bookmark and of course, for the great give away!
Mahalo.
Wow thanks for elaborating on what I usually do from the hip. I do tend to substitute yarns because I make a lot of socks. My primary concern is wear with matching the right pattern to the way the wool was dyed right behind that. I like the 20% or less rule because it makes things less complicated.
The book has lots of fun patterns. I like the light yellow socks. You can never have too many hand knitted socks.
Thanks for guest blogging.
I found the discussion of comparing yarns very interesting. until now, I’ve either relied only on the weight of the yarn or just guessed (with mixed results). Now I have more to think about. Most of my learning has been from experience (some good and some bad) and now I have some concrete things to think about.
I think I learned how to be more adventurous with selection. Most times I just look at the pattern directions and opt for the yarn stated by the designer—which works out well—but also keeps me from using up my growing stash. So I think I will take the plunge and try swatching with some of the yarns in my stash and see how they work up—-I just might get the mighty stash down to a reasonable size:)
Thanks.
I like the reminder that, while we usually focus on yarn weight and gauge, we need to pay attention to the resultant fabric – how it feels, how it drapes – as well. Sometimes that is the most important consideration.
There are a lot of factors to take into consideration, but it may not be as tricky as it seems at first. I’m still learning the various characteristics of the different fibers.
In this post, I learned just how stunning a well executed swatch can be. I’m used to them being purely utilitarian, but all the ones here are beautiful in their own rights.
I was intrigued with the notion that the addition of up to 20% nylon really doesn’t make much difference in the overall yarn composition in terms of yarn substitutions . . .
Very interesting! Much to think about when swapping yarns for a pattern.
i have definitely subbed yarn before but i think i usually just relied on weight. this post made me realize that i need to think about fiber content and structure as well. thanks for the giveaway!
It was a good reminder that it’s not all about stitch count and like fiber types Maybe swatching will grow on me yet!!
SUCH GREAT INFORMATION — THANKS!
Once again, the point of swatching has been driven home to me, even in a project like a sock where I’m convinced i know what will happen with a substitute yarn.
oh my, these designs look gorgeous! I particularly learned that a tightly spun two ply would be closer to the equivalent of a three ply, rather than a loosely spun two ply. I would have guessed it to be the other way around so this will definitely be useful. Thank you for the opportunity!
The most efficient explanation regarding yarn substitutions that I have read. Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention. The designs are lovely, as well. Wonderful post.
Wow such great information! I will swatch more.
Hunter confirms my suspicion that a nylon content anywhere between 10-20% doesn’t significantly affect the feel of a yarn while enhancing its elasticity and durability. I’ve only tried nylon blends with merino and merino/cashmere, I’ll have to try one of the alpaca/nylon blends. I love alpaca and would love to try it in a blend that allows for something more elastic.
The theory of yarn substitution is enlightening. It is a good explanation as to why there may not be a good marriage between yarn and pattern. Thank you for sponsoring the giveaway.
I have Hunter’s first book and now I must have this one too! Such a talented designer 🙂
Very interesting article! Hunter’s first book is beautiful- I can’t wait to see the next one.
I learned to substitute yarns one needs to compare yarn weight, fiber, & content which is most ideal but then one can mix some of these comparisons in yarns a little more ideal like 2 ply instead of 3ply.DK as compared to fingering.
Love Hunter’s designs rinebird om Ravelry
I learned that I should swatch! 😉 I usually don’t for accessories; i just dive right in.
The suggestion that “about up to 20 percent” nylon doesn’t make a real difference in yarn composition. Interesting.
I love Hunter’s explanation of how yarns with different numbers of plies can be substituted for each other in a lot of cases. I never thought that was possible before reading this. Her new book looks wonderful!
What I learned that I should do a swatch. I’ve always just substituted yarn by weight. I didn’t realize the content can be substituted as well! But it is amazing to see the difference when you swatch and decide what works and what does not!
Drape! The last 3 sweaters I have knit are all about drape. I think this should be more of a consideration that matching gauge to the pattern. As is stated, it takes math skills but is doable.
Throw into the mix handspun yarn. I made Aztec Mazes with handspun merino. Merino is not my favorite sweater wool, but it is sure soft and squishy. It would not hold up to the scrutiny of comparing swatches. I just made a decision to use it, and I made it work, and it looks wonderful. it feels great on, and so far, it is holding up without too many pills.
Love these thoughts… and it really motivated me to swatch. I wish I could have the actual yarn used in a pattern so I could make similar swatch comparisons at home!
The interesting thought I gained was the reason for a two-ply being similar to a three-ply. As a novice spinner, these seem quite different to me now that I spin. Thinking about the degree of twist allowing them to be comparable is interesting. Especially as I never seem to have quite enough in a true 3-ply from 4 ox of fiber when I spin. If I ply a 2 ply very tightly, could it really be a good substitute for a three ply? My yardage would then be enough for a pair of socks! Gonna do this on my next yarn for comparison!
A great explanation on why fiber content is so important. Thank you!
I never realized the importance of fiber twist to the finished knitted fabric or that alpaca is not as elastic as wool. Thanks for offering such an interesting discussion!
I enjoyed the comparison between the two seemingly unlike yarns for the cowl. I also hadn’t thought much before about situations where I can and probably can’t successfully substitute yarns with different ply numbers.
I learned there is a LOT I don’t know about knitting and yarn.
Count me in….always curious!
I clicked the link in this post to find more about how to use a yarn that is not the recommended weight in a project. The formula given is very helpful. There have been times where I would like to use a certain color way for a pattern, but it isn’t the right weight. Now that I understand the math, I should be able to try using other weights in some patterns.
Swatch! Swatch! Swatch! Something I don’t like doing.
Gauge is not the only reason to swatch. Stitch definition and the hand of the finished fabric are other “tells” of a swatch. I am doing more of this than I used to…
How timely! I was trying to sub a yarn just this morning. And, now I know that for my sub, doing the math is the answer.
It has never occurred to me to look at the structure of the yarn. Now that it’s been pointed out to me, it’s so obvious. Learn every day.
I hadn’t thought much about ply structure when substituting yarns – just goes to show there’s always more to learn!
Definitely swatch and be more adventurous in subbing yarns.
is it not strange the way we find things we need to know,,, well no its not when we consider, often that we are led to,,, so I found this great blog, this morning
I have some lively yarn left from a shawl I just completed, and I just signed up for a course making socks,,, could I use the yarn I thought,?
googled a little and found your blog, may be this yarn i have will be a little to soft for socks it may not wear as well but they will be for best, with my best woollen pants, and when i wear my shawl.
and to protect them i can always wear a short colourless
knee high stocking,, under the sock so i will do a swath and see how i go,
thank you
Perfect timing. I have had questions recently about yarn substitutions and this most certainly pointed me in the right direction. Swatch, but consider your fiber content and ply. Great post. Thank you!
I learned about the importance of ply and twist in yarn substitutions – good to know! Thanks for the giveaway! 🙂
Not really new for me – but nevertheless very interesting. Thank you and have a nice day 🍀.
Wow, what a great book. Lots of smaller projects you can work on over the summer. You could have alot of gifts ready for the holidays.
The formula provided is very helpful! As is the info re ply and twist. I’ve substituted with some success in the past, but really liked reading how a designer thinks about it. I was interested to learn that the addition of up to about 20% nylon does not significantly change the yarn. I’ve always shied away from yarns that have more than 10% nylon because I thought more than that would effect the feel of the yarn. Now I’ll trying swatching some sock yarns with a higher nylon content.
This will help me figure out what fiber to spin to make some of these (and other) patterns. Thanks!
great article, thanks. i learned that not all weights of yarn are equal & they can’t all be used interchangeably for substituting. i just thought fingering was fingering, but will be looking at fiber content, ply, etc. re-emphasizes the importance of swatching. this would be a great reference book to add to my knitting library! thanks again!!
I rarely have the yarn called for in a pattern, so I am always substituting and I really just fly by the seat of my pants. It is so good to have some hard facts, like stitch count / new gauge * 1.1 = new size, to take the guesswork out of my deliberations. Many thanks for that.
While I always consider weight and fiber content, I hadn’t really thought much about the structure before reading this article. Sounds like a great reference book for all knitters.
Hunter’s post brings to the forefront that knowing the characteristics of fiber aids in our choice of yarns for our projects
Love her Curiosity Cabinet
Imaginative patterns
Would be thrilled to be The Lucky Commenter
It will be in my library one way or another
Hunter’s comments on the use of nylon in yarn I found interesting.
Hunter’s post convinced me — finally and unequivocally — that I must start swatching for projects.
Interesting that yarns with different characteristics can be substituted if the project will work and that a good swatch will allow you to decide if the drape and hand are acceptable.
Wow, I have always been told to swatch but
now I have better understanding of why. Thanks!
I love the idea of adjusting different yarn weights for a project! What a great technique to learn about!
I love how versatile yarn can be if we look at it in a more in depth level. Makes me want to stash dive & find similarities & differences of my go to yarns 🙂
I was really stuck in the first example of substituting yarns– but the idea of thinking about the project and matching the qualities of the “fabric” really lit a bulb in my brain.
This was very helpful. I’m currently in process of starting an AH lace shawl using a slightly heavier weight lace yarn than specified in the pattern. I can understand subbing a yarn with same content and number of plies, especially in making a sock which usually requires a close fit. Ditto for cowl; it has more forgiveness if gauge is not exact and one can usually tell how to adjust it to fit if using a different yarn. I definitely want to learn more about evaluating substitutions and alterning patterns using math to have them come out as expected. Thanks for getting me thinking about this with an introduction to key concepts.
I’ve always been substituting yarn by trial and error and now I have a better idea of how to substitute for the best results. I should really swatch more often.
I often sbstitute yarns and am usually focused on gauge. I need to think of swatching as a miniature project so I can better evaluate the other characteristics of the yarn. I used to knit with similar yarns where I could predict drape, sheen, stitch definition, etc. In the last decade (through Ravelry and Knitspot clubs!), my exposure to new yarns has never been greater. I need to remember to swatch to truly appreciate learning about the yarn before plunging into a project. Thanks for the reminder!
This is so helpful! I am a hand spinner and in the process of trying to learn how to spin yarn that will substitute well for commercial yarns suggested in patterns. There are so many variables but this post gave me a better idea of what to focus on.
Good to know I can get a good result when the substituted yarn doesn’t completely match. I’m loving the BNW in a variety of knits…thanks Anne!!!
I learned not to be so nervous about trying yarn substitutions. 🙂
I generally go simply for weight/size of yarns (“fingering,” “worsted” etc.) when substituting, but looks like I need to Swatch more to take in other characteristics…Thanks.
Ahhh, swatching! So nice and so boring at the same time, I learned that you have to look closely at your stash and find different alternatives. You never know what you can discover!
I love Hunter’s second curio book, and would love love love to win this! And great article about substituting yarn, by the way. It’s the knitters’ perennial question…
I’m taken with Hunter’s comment that up to 20% nylon in a fingering weight/sock yarn can be considered a “blank slate.” I find that idea fascinating and it does open up the possibilities for substitutions! Thanks for an interesting blog post and the offer of 2 books for some lucky person!
When I first started knitting 50 years ago, my mother did not even consider the given yarn! She always substituted with success. I just thought that that was the way to go. Just recently have I used some suggested yarns. I enjoy the flexibility of choice.
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